Thursday 8 June 2017

Monday-Tues – Edinburgh and home

After driving west from Burntisland to go over the Forth Bridge (they’re building a 3rd one!), we arrived at our hotel at Edinburgh airport. We added one more mode of transport to our list today, taking the tram from Edinburgh airport into the city.

I don’t really know much about Edinburgh, and I didn’t have my bearings very well, so after finding some lunch we wandered in the obvious direction, up to Edinburgh Castle. Once again the weather was beautiful – so there were hordes of tourists at the castle! They’re already putting up grandstands for the Edinburgh Tattoo in August, so the castle didn’t make such an imposing sight for photos – but there are sure great views to be had over the city (and over to Burntisland) from up there. The castle has a variety of buildings and spaces showcasing different eras and communities; Levi was particularly interested in the military museum, and I like learning and imagining how people lived (both the royals and their staff).

Worst part of the day was walking up- and down-hill on cobbled streets in poorly-chosen shoes, on a warm day, in crowds… sore feet, tired and grumpy as a result. The city (or the tourist precinct, anyway) was buzzing though, with lots of street performers and music as well as the (us) tourists. I would definitely like to come back to Edinburgh with a bit more time to get to know it than was possible this time.


We caught a tram back to the hotel for a quiet evening, to get packed ready for our flight in the morning. My last activity of the day was to phone Margaret Storrie on Islay. We chatted for about an hour, and it was a perfect, very fitting way to round out the trip.

Sunday – Finishing at the beginning

I apologise for how long it has taken me to finish this blog. That’s because I got up to here, our day in Burntisland – the beginning, because Burntisland is where William Bald, the central figure of this journey, was born and spent his childhood. This blog entry in no way does justice to the richness of our Burntisland experience, but as it’s now the anniversary of the completion of our trip I decided I should post it regardless.

Iain Sommerville developed the website burntisland.net, dedicated to the people, history and goings-on of this town of some 6500 people on the northern shore of the Forth of Firth. When Dad first “found” William and discovered he’d been born in Burntisland, he also discovered Iain’s website, and made contact. Iain added a William Bald page to the “People” section of the website, and over the years has done a stellar job of collating information, even doing his own research on William and adding significantly to our knowledge of the Bald family.

I’ve been in touch with Iain quite a bit in the lead-up to this trip, and meeting him is a real highlight. He had obviously put a lot of effort into preparing for our visit – he’d printed out family trees and copies of records, planned the itinerary for the day, and he also had copies of his books about Burntisland for us. He picked us up from the Beach House B&B just after 10, and took us around several family sites. First and foremost was the site of the Bald house at the bottom of High Street – now unfortunately just a car park next to the railway overbridge. However, there is a plaque in William’s honour installed on the bridge, and it’s amazing to stand there under the plaque, looking across and up the road, and see other houses that were there during William’s childhood in the late 1700s.

We went to Somerville Square, named after mathematician and astronomer Mary Somerville, a daughter of Burntisland. (I had always assumed Iain Sommerville must be descended from Mary’s family, but it turns out that’s not the case. I’d never noticed the extra ‘m’ in Iain’s surname!) Somerville Square was formerly called ‘Quality Street’, presumably because it was where some well-off, “quality” families lived. These included at one time the McOmishes – in-laws of Christian McOmish nee Bald, William’s sister who married mason/builder William McOmish.
After that we spent some time looking around the churchyard of the Parish church, where we saw the headstone of William’s niece Margaret Conquergood (great name!) nee McOmish. Margaret would be cousin to William’s son Charles, so our cousin 3 or 4 times removed… close ties! Her mother, William’s sister Christian, according to her death certificate was also buried in the churchyard, and it’s fairly likely their father and mother were buried here too – but there are no headstones remaining and I don’t think any records, so unfortunately we don’t know exactly where either Christian or her and William’s parents’ graves are.

We also saw another large bronze plaque installed at the other end of High Street, by the entrance to The Links, honouring the sons and daughters of Burntisland – including William Bald – who have become renowned for their sporting, political, academic or business achievements. Burntisland really punches above its weight as the hometown of many people who have made big contributions to society one way and another.

Iain treated us to a lovely lunch at the Kingswood Hotel, then delivered us to Ian Archibald, convenor of the Burntisland Heritage Trust. Thank you Iain, I’m indebted to you for the care you took of us and for the full and fascinating day you arranged. It was an honour to meet you.

Ian Archibald started off by showing us around the Burgh building, which has a long history and contains some really interesting paintings and other artefacts.
Then we went back to the Parish church, this time for a look inside. Ian warned us as he opened the door that it wouldn’t be as we expected inside – and he was absolutely right! The design is most unusual; instead of entering at the back of a central aisle with pews either side, running up to the pulpit front and centre, this church is square, with pews on all four sides, including gallery pews upstairs, and the pulpit in the middle. (I didn’t think of it at the time, but it’s occurred to me since to wonder how they manage typical ceremonial processions, like a bride walking down the aisle or a coffin being carried out?)

The church was built in the late 1500s, and the design makes it feel quite intimate. Other unusual aspects were the designs/paintings on the front of the upper level pews, which have been beautifully restored, and the way the pews are closed in - they’re sort of like corrals rather than just rows of seats. (One especially amused me – it’s double-depth, apparently because the parishioner who occupied it was fond of bringing his dogs to church services!)

One last lovely thing about our wonderful hosts in Burntisland…It turns out Ian Archibald is a retired surveyor/cartographer who worked for the Crown Survey in Edinburgh and he came across William Bald some years ago, around the same time that Dad first made contact with Iain Sommerville via the Burntisland.net website. An 1805 map of the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides had apparently been attributed to John Ainslie; but a print of the map was found in 1988 and it has William Bald’s name on it… Through his work Ian managed to get a copy of that print, and I am thrilled to say that Ian has generously passed that copy on to us now!

In the evening Levi and I took a drive around, first over to the old ruined Kirk where I had a wander round the churchyard, and then to Broomhill where we walked up to the lookout which has a great view over the old town.


The day in Burntisland was wonderful; I came away loaded with interesting information, and with a strong sense of connection.